Revolutionary 4D printed dress could be the shape of things to come

Designers Jessica Rosenkrants and Jesse Louis-Rosenberg see $3,000 garment as a shift away from mass production

According to Jessica Rosenkrantz, "this is just the beginning". As one half of perhaps the most innovative design duo in the world, Rosenkrantz is still basking in the acclaim for the 4D designer dress that has just been added to the permanent collection of the Museum of Modern Art in New York

"This dress may never be worn," she told the Observer."But the project is in part about a web application - Kinematics - that anyone can use to design a product that can be made very efficiently,

requires no assembly and perfectly fits the body"

The people behind the dress are Rosenkrantz and Jesse Louis-Rosenberg, Massachusetts Institute of Technology(MIT) graduates in biology and architecture, and mathematics respectively. Their design studio, Nervous System, is at the forefront of a movement that uses software to mimic processes and patterns found in nature

The results are breathtakingly intricate designs, taken from the veins in leaves, crystal formations or the delicate radiating gills found on the underside of mushrooms, which are used to make products such as jewllery, lampshades and garden trellise. To create the dress, the designers took a 3D scan of the model's body. The Kinematics app then rendered the image with tessellated or triangular patterns. According to the size, placement and quantity of triangles - each held with hinges - the garment can be made to move like fabric

By uniting the garment into a single piece and compressing the design for printing  - it required 2,279 printed panels interconnected by 3,316 hinges - the designers found that they could reduce the volume for printing by 85%.  It has still cost $3,000 in materials and took two days to print on a commercial 3D printer, but the see-through cocktail has pushed design, fashion and manufacturing in new directions.

The theory of 4D printing describes making something in one shape that unfolds to become another - in essence, 3D printing with an extra layer of computational power. The biggest surprise, Rosenkrantz says, is that it actually works. However, she adds, the garment industry has always been at the forefront of new technology, from the weavers' loom to the present day.

" We'ew interested in creating complex objects that are one of a kind and customisable," says Louis- Rosenberg," and [we want] to use 3D printing to make products that have never been made before"

Nervous System developed the Kinematics concept as a project for Google to publicise the company's Android phones. The designers guessed that their technique for printing bracelets on domestic MakerBot 3D printers that folded like origami could be used for larger projects but were still surprised the dress came out as well as it did, "It feels like mechanical lace, somewhere between plastic and fabric," Rosenkrantz explains. "We'd like to do a little more testing before we say we're ready to market it."

while technology companies are leaning toward fashion to glamorise wearable technology, or geek wear - Apple is expected to announce design collaborations with luxury brands when it launches the iWatch early next year - it is still relatively rare for that process to be reversed. The Dutch designer Iris van Herpen recently introduced clothes inspired by the Large Hadron Collider, the particle accelerator at the Cern laboratory in Switzerland.

Nervous System's aim, though, is not to endorse fashion's emphasis on exclusivity, but to return the power to design to the individual wearer. One of their chief influences is Skylar Tibbits, a research professor at MIT's department of architecture, who focuses on self-assembly and programmable material technologies. That computational power can then be used to mimic designs found in nature - a fern, for instance, or egg - under the label of biomimetic or organic design. Advances in what Tabbits calls "hyperform" might allow designers to make structures as fine as silk or sturdy as tweed

 

Rosenkrantz and Louis-Rosenberg are reluctant to describe the dress as fashion. "This is fundamentally about harnessing computational power and new fabrication methods and placing that in the hands of people," says Louis-Rosenberg.

They anticipate a return to artisanal craftmanship, reached not through reverting to pre-industrial methods of manufacturing but through advanced technology  -  and a distinct shift away from the idea of mass production and luxuary branding

"We're interested in things that are customised, that you design yourself and are made locally, affordably and ethically as part of your lifestyle," says Rosenkrantz. "It's not just about picking something off  the shelf"

Customisation and bespoke tailoring once existed only at the luxury end of the market but the MIT graduates argue that it is something mass-market consumers have always wanted but have traded for products that they could afford to buy. "It wasn't as if we decided we all wanted the same T-shirt or chair because we wanted to look the same," Rosenkrantz reasons. "It was because of price-point and efficiency"

Now, with a backlash building against the consumer world of "product", 3D technologies could point the way forward. The machine that built the Kinematics dress at the Shapeways "3D printing factory" in New York costs hundreds of thousands of dollars and is difficult to operate. Machines of this complexity are not going to be in our homes any time soon but the software and computational power is readily available

"The ability to design and print your own products is something we think about," says Rosenkrantz. "We want to bring back the feeling that what you have is what you actually want - not just the thing you settled for"

New York's Museum of Modern Art clearly believes the pair are on to something. It is planning to put the dress on display next month as part of a show highlighting advances in design.

"We really appriciate when new technology is used well and, we believe, will have an impact on the real world," says Paola Antonelli, the museum's senior design curator."We think it's an important stepping stone and an elegant manifestation of technology that allows the printing of textiles folded and offers enormous potential for the future of fabrication "

textile

What trends are being noticed in the textile industry ?

섬유 산업에서 어떤 경향을 읽을 수 있는가?

The company has an excellent tie-up in textile export trade

그 회사는 섬유류 수출에 있어서 좋은 거래선을 가지고 있다.

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manifestation

This situation is another manifestation of the same problem

이 상황은 같은 문제의 또다른 예이다.

Life as a Manifestation of the Second Law of Thermodynamics

열역학 제2법칙의 발현으로서의 삶

The one child policy is just one manifestation of that

하나의 아동 정책은 그저 그것에 대한 하나의 징후이다.

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stepping stone

For artists like Antigone Rising, the exclusivity is not a problem, it's a stepping stone

앤티곤 라이징과 같은 아티스트에게는 독점 판매권이 문제이기는 커녕 하나의 발판이 된다.

The experience could be a good stepping stone for him

그 경험이 그 애한테 아주 좋은 밑거름이 될 거야

a stepping stone to a more lucrative career

돈을 더 많이 버는 직업으로 나아가기 위한 디딤돌

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curator

These days, you need a law degree to be a curator

요즘에는 큐레이터가 되기 위해서는 법학분야의 학위가 필요하다.

It used to be that for a quiet, scholarly life, you couldn't beat the job of a museum curator

조용한 환경속에 학자적인 삶을 원한다면, 전에는 박물관 큐레이터를 능가할 만한 직업도 없었다.

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settle for 

On second thought. I'll settle for pizza and movies

다시 생각해 보니, 피자를 먹고 영화를 보는 것으로 결정해야 겠어요

He does not want to settle for an average job.

그는 평범한 직업에 만족하며 살기를 원하지 않는다.

She'll never settle for pizza next year

그녀는 내년에 절대 피자로 만족하지 않을거다

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bring back

Bring back to a boil for about 45 seconds

약 45초간 다시 끓이 세요

Add the couscous and bring back to a boil

쿠스쿠스를 더 넣고 다시 끓여라

At this game, we tired to bring back the aches

이 게임에서 우리는 설욕하기 위해 노력하였다.

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readily 

She could have yielded embarrassment as readily as triumph

그녀는 성공만큼이나 쉽게 좌절할 수도 있었다

A thick layer of dust was brushed off his clothes readily

두터운 먼지가 그의 옷에서 툭툭 털어져 나갔다.

I readily agree that that is the prerogative of Government

나는 그것이 정부의 특권이라는 것을 기꺼이 받아들인다

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backlash

If another attack happens, the backlash will be severe

만약 앞으로 또 다른 공격이 일어난다면 그 파장은 심각할 것입니다.

This forced measure will cause a backlash

이런 폭력적 수단은 거센 반발을 불러일으킬 것이다.

The opposition party suffered from the impeachment backlash

야당은 거센 탄핵 역풍을 맞았다.

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efficiency

Which is more important between creativity or efficiency

창의성과 효율성 중 어느 것이 더 중요하다고 생각합니까?

They offered a new model with increased  fuel-efficiency

그들은 연비가 개선된 새 모델을 출시 했다.

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reason

Let's reason whether your answer is correct or not

너의 답이 옳은지 그른지 논해 보자

One day, your teacher will bring you to reason

언젠가 너희 스승은 너에게 도리를 깨치게 하실 것이다.

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trade

people started to trade for what they needed

사람들은 필요로 하는 것을 물물교환하기 시작했다.

People used money to trade things

사람들은 물건을 매매하는 데 화폐를 사용했다.

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MIT graduates

Prof. Jones directed my graduate work

존스 교수가 나의 대학원 연구를 지도해 주셨다.

He is a graduate of Harvard Business School

그는 하버드 대학 경영대학원 출신이다.

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tailor

They can help advertisers tailor ads to individuals

광고주들이 개개인에 맞추어 광고를 할 수 있도록 도움을 준다

We can provide you with a solution tailored to meet your company's individual needs at a competitive price

우리는 당신의 회사의 개별적인 필요에 꼭 맞는 해결책을 적절한 가격에 제공할 수 있다.

More and more, cancer treatment is being tailored based on your genes

점점 더, 암치료는 너의 유전자에 근거하여 맞춰진다.

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bespoke

The very way he walked bespoke the man

걸음걸이가 그의 성격을 여실히 나타냈다.

I suppose I wanted something more bespoke, something that reflected who I am.

난 나 자신을 더 잘 드러내는 무언가를 원했던 거 같아.

bespoke software

맞춤형 소프트웨어

His style of dressing bespoke great self-confidence

그가 옷 입는 스타일은 자신감이 대단함을 보여주었다.

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customisation

Installs Windows using this configuration set, and allows manual customization of the image when finished. Does not reseal the computer

구성 요소들을 사용하여 Windows를 설치하고, 완료 시 이미지를 수동으로 변경하도록 한다. 컴퓨터를 다시 봉인하지 않는다.

In this stage, the wizard will prompt you for some basic information. you will be asked for your company name, customization code, and role. You will also be prompted for what kind of media you want to create and a location to build your package to

이 단계에서 회사 이름, 사용자 지정 코드, 역할과 같은 기본 정보를 입력해야 한다. 또한 만들고자 하는 미디어 유형 및 패키지 설치 위치를 입력해야 한다.

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pick something off the shelf

ethically

affordably

customise

the idea of mass production and luxuary branding

distinct

revert

craftmanship

artisanal

fabrication

harness

be reluctant to

tweed

as sturdy as

as fine as

htperform

biomimetic

fern

programmable

emphasis on exclusivity

endorse

accelerator

particle

that process to be reversed

relatively

wearable

glamorise

be leaning toward

ready to market

origami

publicise

customisable

computational

unfold

cocktail

see-through

interconnect

compress

fabric

hinge

placement

triangular

tessellate

trellise

lampshade

underside

gill

radiate

delicate

intracate

breathtakingly

forefront

respectively

requires no assembly and perfectly fits the body

kinematics

acclaim

bask

shift away

garment